The Detail Is In The Duality | Office Magazine

2022-10-09 14:42:36 By : Mr. Bruce Zhao

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Hermès perfumer Christine Nagel is the embodiment of duality. Her dynamic heritage, split between Italy and Switzerland, is illustrated in her bold and intuitive, yet careful and sensitive approach to scent formulation. So naturally, every scent she creates is a personification of her many sensibilities.

But Nagel also recognizes that, given her unique position, she has a great deal of responsibility on her hands. Not only to create under the opulent legacy of the Hermès name but to create something that resonates with others in the same way it warms her own senses. 

To Nagel, perfume stands in as a manifestation of feeling — conjuring emotions and caressing our senses in a way that no other material object can. Now with the debut of the Hermessence collection’s new scent, Violette Volynka, Nagel is bringing yet another revolutionary sensory experience to the table. Balmy notes of Volynka wrap the wearer in a snug embrace while exquisite notes of violet round out that ardent warmth. The fragrance is the sum of various parts, but the result is effortlessly harmonious — much like its creator. 

Continue reading for office’s exclusive interview with in-house perfumer, Christine Nagel.

As Director of Creation and Olfactory Heritage, how do you continually concoct new scents that seamlessly mesh with Hermès’ brand ethos?

It is an incredible privilege to work with this house that has such an amazing heritage and legacy. My creations are always inspired by that, and it's as if I have free realm in this amazing space that Hermès gives me. My work is a display of the duality of how the house inspires me and who I really am. I know I also have a tremendous amount of responsibility, as the first object that many buy from Hermès is usually a perfume. I am the one creating that entry-level product for the consumer.

I like the idea that your scents are a bit of you and your personality, but then, of course, you're working under a Maison that has been esteemed for generations. This craft in itself is an art form. What is your first scent memory and when did you decide you wanted to help create scents for others?

The first scent memory I have is when I was 10 years old, when my little brother was born. We're ten years apart. I vividly remember that my mom used to use talcum powder on him. It was called Borotalco, which is an Italian brand. This made me realize that those scents that are linked to childhood are always very impactful to anybody, in every culture. I realized that these scents are always essential and so impactful as a first scent.

When you are growing up in Europe, you have to do an internship. I decided to do one internship in chemistry and another internship in a hospital because, originally, I wanted to be a midwife that would deliver babies. I ended up realizing I had a passion for chemistry instead.

Sometimes, it's also about life's happy coincidences. I realized when I was doing this internship that there was this company across the street that was called Firmenich, which had received a Nobel Prize. So I decided to send a letter to see if they were looking for someone to hire. They responded and brought me on. So I stopped my studies and go and work with them. And then I discovered, at that point, the world of perfumery and scent and this entire craft.

On a similar note, regarding your upbringing — you're both Swiss and Italian. Does this inform the notes or the ingredients that you're commonly drawn to?

The thing that is always very important to me is that there's a duality within me. With my Italian heritage, there's a warmth and that quality is something that is apparent in my work. But I also have all the Swiss qualities of being very organized and very systematic which are also very essential to my process.

I'm glad that we touched on that duality because I feel like that element encompasses Violette Volynka so well. Among duality, what other qualities make each of your scents uniquely yours? Is there a signature you always embrace?

I have a very tactile way of creating perfumes, so it's very sensorial. The formulas I create are very precise and pure. And it shows, again, the duality of my personality but also how I approach the formulation process. So you have the warmth, but you also have the efficiency and the purity of the of formulas. Hermès is a very tactile house as well — between the rich leathers and cashmeres — you are always invited to touch. So it is also very important for me to be able to touch my own raw ingredients and work with elements that are touchable.

A perfume is something that always appeals to the senses, but this experience is a little bit unique for you, as you have synesthesia. That's such an interesting perspective to have as someone who is creating, so how does this factor into your process?

All synesthesia is different — my personal perspective is that I see a link between texture, smell, and colors. I don't really see a connection between smell and music. But for example, when I go to Hermès' runway shows, I can even smell with the eyes. So, for me, it's not only something that you take in with the nose, but I see the beautiful, worn leathers that are so supple, the incredible cashmere, and yarn and I can feel it too. It's something that's very emotional and sensorial — but in all the different senses. It's also smelling with the eyes and being able to appreciate the craftsmanship, which is something that is so undeniably Hermès. It's a part of the house's DNA.

So those things go hand in hand, and that definitely becomes apparent with this scent. There are layers to it and it's very nuanced. How do you feel this scent differs from the others within the Hermessence collection?

The Hermessence Collection combines Hermès' heritage with scent, essence, and essentials. It was created in 2004 for a niche market, for someone specific. When I started creating perfumes for Hermès in 2017, I created really royal scents. That was the original intent of fragrances — to be used in a really grand, royal, and exceptional way. Creating scents that were putting raw material as the lead top notes was something completely new at the time, but it was very important to me. It's always very important to highlight those ingredients. What is essential to the Hermessence Collection is the moment when I am introduced to a new raw ingredient. I have found that when I come across a new raw material that piques my interest, I am able to continue building off of it. This allows me to create a new scent which will then lead to another duality. This time around, that moment happened with the demure violet.

I wanted to discuss that next. Why was there a personal draw to violet as being the focus of this fragrance? What about that ingredient was so impactful to you?

So the first thing with violet is that it's the scent that everybody knows. It is always in beauty products and it's the scent that was traditionally in lipstick. However, it's what we call a muted flower because it's almost impossible to capture the essence of a violet. It's the same case for lilac, lily of the valley — all of these are muted flowers. So you have to recreate the scent and it's about the feeling of the scent that you're recreating.

So one day, I decided that I wanted to recreate the scent of a violet. What may not be totally apparent is that at Hermès, I'm absolutely free. I have free range to do whatever I want, and I am grateful that I am trusted to develop my own ideas. During this process, I realized that there is a natural extract that exists in the leaf of the violet. But the one that is usually used in perfumes is the one that comes from Egypt. It is a great violet, but I was curious about what else was out there. Through my research, I discovered that there are two French producers of violets. I contacted Firmenich, which is actually the first company I worked with when I was younger, to prepare this extract of violet leaf. The scent they created was so exceptional. It was way more expensive than the one from Egypt, but I think it's essential to work with something that is so high-end and so high quality. It's also about how to recognize the craftmanship that we still have in France and how to continue to utilize it.

What qualities of the French violet scent made it stand out more compared to its Egyptian counterpart?

The difference is that the one from France was very embracing, very warm. It was extremely powerful and a very profound scent. I compareed it to when you fall in love. When you fall in love, you have butterflies and you're flustered. And whenever I'm flustered, I go for it. Because again, it's a very emotional connection. Perfume is always emotional. Even if you get a beautiful bottle from a wonderful house for Christmas, you're going to try it, but you are really going to wear what works for you and what's emotional for you.

Can you tell me a bit more about the other deeper, darker side of this scent — the Volynka?

Volynka is a leather that's really hard to work because it's very tough. And when I once saw a beautiful bag of it, I was very impressed. I was even wondering how the craftsman was able to complete such a specific sewing technique and manipulate the leather so well. It smells like leather, but it has this smokey side. I loved the powerful qualities of the material. So when I discovered that leather, I decided that I needed to find something that was just as powerful to balance it. And that's how I landed on introducing violet. I was surprised by this combination since violet is so light and airy — but that notion of duality made it work. It’s a delicate game of hide and seek.

You speak about this scent feeling emotional and romantic. Is that where you want to take wearers? Where do you hope people transcend to when they're wearing this scent?

It's a scent that has a personality. Whoever is going to wear it — whether it's a woman or a man — it's someone who will have a strong personality. I hope it makes them feel that way as well.

Poster Girl is far more than bodysuits and bright colors, though they have certainly championed these arenas. The British brand has built itself up as a force to be reckoned with since the start, with fun, sexy and playful looks that stand out during London Fashion Week, which, if you know anything about London fashion, is a feat. It's a business bursting with edge here in London, and while that is something Poster Girl certainly has, the designers and their team approach it with glitter, femininity, and a sense levity some others may lack. And on that note, this season, they outdid themselves. 

Not all latex micro minis need to be black or red, nor are all heavily pierced faces found atop dark JNCOs and a Sex Pistols shirt. While pulling more punk references to be infused with a palate of pinks and lavender can go awry quite fast, Poster Girl perfected it with a collection beautifully cohesive, without foregoing impressive range from look to look. Touching on motifs from Western wear with heavy, sparkling belt buckles, to a 2000s inspired hot pink crochet bodysuit embellished with rhinestones, to a flowing white beaded English flag dress, to a neutral colored latext bra top that left nothing to the imagination... To reiterate, there was range.

One of the key elements in bringing it all together was the beauty, done by Isamaya Ffrench with the Industrial collection from her self-titled line ISAMAYA. With razor-cut brows, dustings of glitter and heavy silver face piercings installed on the models, the artist's work was the cherry on top of a memorable collection, drawing out elements of the design work and unique accessories, weaving the pieces together with unparalleled, signature skills.

Backstage, in pre-show chaos, I got to sit down with Isamaya herself to discuss what made this season shine so brightly. 

You mentioned this show was an especially fun one for you to work on. What makes that the case?

ISAMAYA FRENCH Because Francesca and Natasha (the founders) are always open to creative makeup for their projects; shoots and shows, I can always come up with a little unusual detail and they’ll be happy to go for it. Besides, their clothes ARE fun. It’s sexy, fancy, everything you want to wear on a night out!

When working on a show, what are the aspects of the brand, show, and collection that you hone in on to come up with a creative game plan for your part in it?

IF I always ask first if the designers have a specific makeup direction in mind. If not, we create a moodboard of references based on the collection and just bounce off each other’s ideas. It’s a very organic process.

Why do you feel aligned with this show and Poster Girl?

IF They always let me do my thing, even if at first glance it’s not an obvious choice. For their SS23 show, which I just sponsored and did the makeup for, they let me explore the potential of our Browlacq product by doing exaggerated, razor cut brows, on top of face piercings on various areas of the face, which looked really edgy against their colourful, sparkly, sexy outfits.

How would you describe the energy of London Fashion Week? What sets it apart? 

IF London is really different from the other fashion weeks! It feels more creative, less establishment. The fashion can also be much bolder, because people here are daring with their style more. But I don’t know, it’s also where I live, I know everyone, it’s like a big family.

How does Poster Girl channel this? 

IF Even though they cater to a different crowd than what London people are seen as, they have a very London eye because their clothes are not just sexy and fun. There’s a real edge to their look, the way they accessorize and they’re not afraid of going what would be called too far outside of London. They’re fierce.

Check some of our favorite looks from the show below, and head to the office Instagram to get the full backstage experience.

Runways images courtesy of Getty Images.

Six months after the aromatic "French Waltz" release, Tyler, the Creator's le FLEUR* is back with three new nail polish colors, giving fingers and toes around the world the perfect opportunity to indulge in a Rohmer induced summer fantasy. In addition to the colors, the release includes two nail finishes and a tortoise shell patterned nail file.

A charming commercial accompanies the drop as well. Directed by Tyler, the video is properly drenched in sunbeams and saturation — blessing us with 1 minute and 30 seconds of delicious eye candy. Whether you are looking for nail polish or not, the video is undoubtedly worth a watch. 

The new nail colors include Jade, Blonde, and Rose. For the finishes, Glossy allows for either a clean look or additional topcoat, while Matte adds texture to any color base. Watch the promo video below to see the fully realized product of Tyler's Cherry Bomb era. You can shop the collection at golflefleur.com, Neiman-Marcus Beverly Hills, Health News Stand, Mohawk General Store, Bergdorf-Goodman, and Neimanmarcus.com.

La Maison Valmont, the Swiss skincare and fragrance powerhouse, is by no means a newcomer to the world of luxury. Cradled in a relaxation daydream, office had the chance to escape the crazed city bubble and find solace in the plush spa, tucked away on the third floor of the idyllic Carlyle Hotel.

The Valmont Spa’s New York City location marks the house’s first flagship boutique in the United States, expanding upon the virtuous reputation of the brand which has been recognized internationally for their quality products, emphasis on excellence, and dedication to beautifying the world, one radiant product at a time.

This Spring, Valmont celebrated the launch of their new fragrance, “Just Bloom,” as well as their newest skincare line, “Luminosity.” These vibrant products, characterized by rich floral notes and plant-powered ingredients, reflect the fresh, energetic personalities of the younger generation who Valmont is now calling upon to join the Valmont skincare renaissance.

Not only are the Luminosity collection’s ingredients naturally derived, from crisp white mulberry root to pure papaya extract, but the connection to nature and bio-ingredients is integrated throughout the entire brand ethos, as the Luminosity collection is bottled in 100% recyclable packaging and all of Valmont’s skincare utilizes natural glacial spring water, triple DNA molecules and RNA liposomes extracted from salmon, and resources from their photo-alpine garden.

What started as a wellness center, primarily known for treating burn victims, has blossomed into an opulent dynasty crafted by Sophie and Didier Guillon. A keen eye for the sumptuous things in life and years of dedicated experimentation have propelled La Maison Valmont to the upper echelon that they now occupy. Swaddled in a luxurious terry cloth robe, absorbing the emollient products while transcending to a more fulfilled and peaceful sense of self, it became truly apparent that Valmont is the pinnacle of luxury.

The Luminosity collection includes four products — LumiPeel, a resurfacing peeling lotion, LumiMask, a weekly treatment, LumiSence, an ultra fine, glow-inspiring serum, and LumiCream.

Check out the little slice of paradise that is the Upper East Side Valmont Spa and boutique below.

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